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@65mustangat19 for a mostly drag racing application (some street driving) . The c4 is automatic so its better for drag racing (shifts faster). And a c4 with a couple upgrades can handle alot more power than a stock or upgraded t5 can. You can build a c4 way cheaper than what you can get a manual trans for that will hold around 600hp( which is the power I'm around). If you're not making a ton of power or will be beating on it alot a t5 will be fine.

@adrianosegreto2229 no problem! Glad it's still helping people out!

Nice! yes, mine still looks and works great. No fires, I did spill some ATF on it and it soaked into it a little, it eventually burned smoked off, no fires lol.

They work like they should, had no issues with them, have sence upgraded to a different set, but still keep this set around for occasional use. Thanks for thr comment!

Some RFI issues at first but got those figured out. It's a 650 super sniper. I did wrap distributor to help reduce RFI interference, which help alittle but I did find the distributor cap was causing the issue,swapped cap to a more oe style which doesn't look at cool but fixed my issue. I belive they did fix some rfi issues with the newest " sniper 2 "

@@NuisanceRacing thanks a lot I appreciate the info. I’ve seen some people really going nuts trying to get the sniper working right. Seems like you really figured yours out. 10.90s is pretty fast.

@@6spd85notch no problem!

I would not ,you will loose over drive, lower mpgs ,higher cruising rpm. You will have to get a new torque converter,flexplate, and possibly a new driveshaft ,You will have to fabricate a trans mount .No, stock shifter will not work. C4 is old technology and I only went this route sence the car is a street strip car and does not see alot of highway miles and can hold a good amount of power with some modifications. Your best bet is too get another aode trans or get one that has slight modifications for faster shifts.

Just follow the instructions for the holley sniper,it's been so long sence I set that up. I believe you just need to get a compatible msd distributor.

No not tall enough, but a 5.25 inch speaker should

@@NuisanceRacing what would be good small black plastic box that 6.5. 1/2 150watt speaker would fit on the front of the box which box should I get ?

@kylewilliams3306 I don't think I've seen many big enough that have flat sides doe speaker mounting. Best bet will probably be to go with 5.25 speakera

@@NuisanceRacing would 6.5. 1/2 150watt marine speaker fit on the Stanley 19in toolbox Plastic box?

Should I go with 20 craftsman plastic toolbox with theses speakers PLMR60W or should 19 in 16in?

Jigsaw works best with a blade mode for thin metal.

@@NuisanceRacingwhat if I do not have a saw what could I use to cut out 6.5 1/2 150watt marine speaker on a plastic toolbox ?

Whatever you can find that they will fit in really. A toolbox with flat surfaces will work best.

@@NuisanceRacing could help me find one that fit 6.5 1/5 150watt marine speaker fit on the front

@kylewilliams3306 I used a stanley STST19500 tool organizer with some 6.5 speakers. nice and big to fit battery and other stuff needed in it.

@@NuisanceRacing where did you get the Stanley toolbox from

@@kylewilliams3306 walmart, but I'm sure you can find them online somewhere.

Glad I could help!

It works pretty well! Just make sure you clean thr hose out when you're done!

You could have bent the wheel or the hub in the front ,or bent the wheel or hub on axle in the rear. Easiest way to tell is to lift the rear, remove wheel and have someone put it in drive and let off brake and let rotor spin,and see if the rotor has a wobble too it, that will tell you if the axle/hub is bent.

No problem!

O colocandolas

No hablo español, pero te quitan bolas y resorte.

@@NuisanceRacing estoy preguntando si estas eliminado las bolas y el resolte no importa si no ablas español yo colo el traductor y listo

Es que estoy modificado un trasmision c4 y me gustaría saber mas sobre eso

@@wilrremgshernandez2373 Sí, quitaste las bolas y el resorte, el resorte no se traducía bien en el traductor de Google.

Thanks for the input! You get less resistance from grounding through the chasis/body than running a wire 10 foot to the engine, also less weight than running un needed wire. Companys have been producing cars for years with trunk mounted battery's grounding straight to the body with negative battery terminal with no issues.

I agree!

Other than to be useless an allocate funds to nothing important like homelessness or anything like that nah let’s fuck with the car guys and right to own our vehicles

Thanks for the input! The car does not have a trans brake, so it will only footbrake to around 3k before pushing through the brakes.

The Sniper unit self tunes so all you have to do is put in the basic engine specs and just drive the vehicle and it will adjust the AFR. I let mine self learn then when I was at the dragstrip I would look at the data logs and adjust the fueling table slightly how I saw fit, it wasn't too far off. they did just come out with a "Sniper 2" which has improvements over the first version.

What's not good about the reading your getting? Mine is off of the vacuum tree on rear of intake manifold. Carb spacer should be a good source for it though.I have sence switched over to EFI fuel injection, in some more recent videos.

I think I was too conservative with the settings on the boost controller. I went from 30% duty to 50% duty cycle and was finally able to build some boost.

T bolt clamp would be better ,but I don't think I'd trust it with having high (60 psi ish )of fuel pressure in the line.

@@NuisanceRacing yeah man, almost all of my hose ends have AN fittings already except the one to the fuel rail. Can't find the "AN to hardline adapter" here so i need to import it. Well i guess I'll try my luck with t bolt clamp while waiting for my hardline adapter. Thank you very much

@@NuisanceRacing but i wonder, if the OEM only have a spring clampped rubber hose for the fuel rail, why we can't trust the T bolt clampped braided hose? 🤔

@submariner144 I'm sure it will be fine, but if it was mine I'd feel better with an adapter . Let me know hoe it goes!

@@submariner144 I'd double clamp it also.

Driveshaft does not need re balanced , differential does not effect balance of driveshaft.

Nope neither.i do plan too put subframe connectors in. Tubular k memeber is not in the budget currently. Car has went recently best ET of 10.90s

Thanks! It is pretty heavy so not very mobile friendly. I would probably ditch the power supply and use a 12v battery trickle charger to keep the battery charged,and just always have it run off the battery. That probably the only thing I would change!